Sizes & Fitting
ZONKEY BOOT LASTS
All our shoes come in UK E fitting, which suits a regular well-developed, athletic foot and is rather on the comfortable side. The following description of our lasts and their fitting characteristics should help you order the right size.
This last is based on a 2 cm heel spring, though the visible appearance of the heel might be higher, depending on the thickness of the sole. The SAILOR last has a good measure of extra length in the toe box, which gives it its elegant look. This extra length allows customers with narrow feet to choose a half size shorter and still not being endangered to touch the tip of the shoe with their toes. The waist and instep area of this last has an orthopedically sophisticated shape, which supports the foot to the necessary degree. The result is less tired feet after hours of wearing. The fitting of the Sailor last correlates to the standard UK E fitting with a generous instep. For customers who consider themselves to have narrow feet we recommend to order rather a half size shorter.
The CLASSIC last is based in its back part structure on the SAILOR last. Only by re-fashioning the toe box, the last becomes what we consider a true classic last. Regarding fitting and sizing what has been said about the Sailor counts also for the CLASSIC.
THE HIGH STREET
The HIGH STREET last has an identical back part structure as our SAILOR and CLASSIC lasts. The toe box is slightly chiseled and has been shaped for true dress shoes. Shoes on this last have the same fit as the ones on the SAILOR and CLASSIC.
The TRAVELLER last has a 1.7 cm heel and is used for making so-called lasted slip-on shoes. To make perfect fitting loafers the requirements to the last are slightly different than for classic laced up shoes. Like the SAILOR, this last comes in UK E fitting. Also here, if in doubt, choose rather half a size smaller.
The COLLEGE last is built for moccasins and slip-ons with a heel spring of 1.5 cm and it comes in regular UK E fitting. The relatively short vamp and the edge on the apron gives this last its significant classic penny loafer shape.
In order to avoid gaping of the top-line in the inside arch area we refrained from building in the arch support which most of our lasts have. Otherwise, the College fits true to size with our other lasts in E fitting. If you have a particularly high instep we suggest to contact us before ordering.
The WALKER last is built for tubular moccasins with a heel spring of 1.5 cm. The waist and instep is fashioned similar to the SAILOR last, which gives our tubular moccasins the feeling of good fitting shoes around the instep. Also the WALKER last has some extra length in the toe box and correlates also to UK E fitting. Since moccasins often come in soft materials, we recommend choosing rather half a size shorter than longer in case of doubt.
THE ROAD RUNNER
As an all-round sports shoe last, the Road Runner’s structure is different from our lasts suitable for hand welted and Blake construction. Its orthopaedic quality characteristics are similar to all our other lasts, but here achieved by a sophisticated orthopaedic cork inlay covered in calf lining.
The inlay is not glued to the insole and can be removed easily and since the insole is made entirely from bovine neck leather, shoes on the Road Runner can be worn without the inlay as well. The last comes in UK E fitting, which here is rather on the generous side and customers with slim feet should rather go for half a size smaller compared to our welted shoes.
The PARACHUTE is developed out of a military last, only that we built in the necessary space for a ‘mild’ orthopedic inlay. The heel spring is 1.5 cm. The cork inlays the shoes are delivered with can easily be replaced with personals inlays. The PARACHUTE’s fitting is a ‘generous’ UK E. So again, if in doubt, better choose half a size shorter if your feet are rather on the narrow side.
ZONKEY BOOT MADE-TO-MEASURE BELTS
Our handmade belts are fitted to the precise length you will request during the ordering process. That is why a belt order is always considered a Made-to-Measure (MTM) order for which returns and size exchanges are not accepted.
In order to find out your accurate belt size we recommend two different methods:
1. Place your preferred belt flat on a table and take the measure from the hole which fits best to the tip of the buckle’s spike. Best is to use a flexible tailor measuring tape as it can follow the curve of the belt.
2. Pull a tailor measuring tape into the belt loops of your trousers, as you would do with any belt. Then pull as tight as you like to wear your belt and read the measure. This is your belt size. Please note that the measure of your Made-to-Measure belt must be expressed in centimetres.
The ZONKEY BOOT belts come with five holes. The belt size (in cm) chosen by you will be measured from the middle hole to the tip of the buckles spike.
The buckle is fixed to the belt by a leather loop and two bolts. Therefore, if necessary the belt can be further shortened from the buckle’s end without opening and re-stitching any seams. We recommend having this adjustment made in a leather goods or shoe repair shop.
Since the buckle is genuine silver-plated it can oxidate and show a black patina. For re-polishing, we recommend demounting the buckle by unscrewing the two bolts on the inside of the buckle. No screwdriver is necessary as the bolts have liftable little handles built in.
All seams on our belts are made by hand. The stitch is called TWIST and is a ZONKEY BOOT Registered Design. Stitch by stitch, each hole is pricked with an awl and then threaded. It takes several hours to complete a belt.
Lined belts usually have an inlay from synthetic materials, which defines the profile and the softness. In the case of our belts the lining is the actual inlay. We use 3mm thick vegetable tanned neck leather, which is skived to the belt’s profile and directly stitched to the outside leather.